St. Croix: Where To Sleep

The first decision for a trip to St. Croix is where you will wake up. This island, the largest of the U.S. Virgin Islands, offers distinct choices for a base. For those who want to walk to dinner and to the boats for Buck Island, Christiansted, the main harbour town, provides a grid of arcaded Danish-era streets and most of the island’s restaurants within a few blocks. Here, you are close to the Christiansted wharf where park-licensed boats leave for Buck Island, though the bigger beaches are a drive away. It is a sound base for first-timers and couples who prefer to walk to dinner.

Just west of Christiansted, around Estate Golden Rock and La Grande Princesse, a run of condo resorts and small hotels sit right on the sand. Places like Club St. Croix and Colony Cove offer a beach out the door, a kitchen, and a short drive to the town’s restaurants. These are well-suited for families or longer stays. For space, privacy, and the sea close by, the East End is the answer. This dry, open part of the island, running from Christiansted out to Point Udall, is home to many private villas. The Cerulean, a five-bedroom villa on a gated estate above the sea, is one such property, offering a private pool, covered terraces facing the water, and a private beach where a reef keeps the water calm enough for snorkelling. Villas work well for groups, as the cost per person falls as the party grows.

For a slower pace and the island’s sunsets, Frederiksted on the west coast is the place. This small port town, with its arcaded buildings along Strand Street and the red walls of Fort Frederik, is at its best around sunset. Its long cruise pier is a well-known shore and night dive site. The North Shore, west from Salt River Bay, caters to divers and snorkellers, with the Cane Bay wall a short swim from the beach. St. Croix is a car island, with low speed limits of 20 mph in towns and 35 mph on most roads. Traffic keeps left, though most rental cars are ordinary American left-hand-drive models, so a rental is essential for exploration.

Four factors primarily influence lodging prices. The first is the season: mid-December to mid-April is high season, with the Christmas and New Year weeks at the top of the rates. The second is proximity to the water, where a house or room right on the sea or with a pool deck over it costs more. The third is size, and here villas offer an advantage for groups, as the cost per person decreases with more guests. The fourth factor is the length of stay, as many villas set minimum stays, which are longer in high season. The Crucian Christmas Festival fills the island from December 26 to January 2, making these weeks the first to book. If you come between August and October, during the peak of hurricane season, buy travel insurance that covers storms and book on flexible terms. The practical move is to book very early for the Christmas weeks, and early for February and March.