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A column in every issue · Where to eat

The Table

The local rhythm of meals, the kitchens worth the reservation, and where to sit. The column about lunch.

28 columns · newest first

The column, issue by issue

  1. The pool deck of The Cerulean villa at twilight, with loungers, a white pergola and an outdoor kitchen above the Caribbean Sea. St. Croix · Vol. 2 · No. 10 · October 2026 Crucian Cooking, Johnnycakes and Chicken On St. Croix, the local rhythm of meals features fried bread, savoury pâtés, and the island's celebrated spit-roast chicken. By Vivienne Hartwell · 2 min read · p. 13
  2. View over Ipanema and Leblon beaches in Rio de Janeiro from a hillside, with a community in the foreground and the peaks of Dois Irmãos and Pedra da Gávea beyond. Rio de Janeiro · Vol. 2 · No. 09 · September 2026 Rio Eating: Boteco, Feijoada, Beach Learn Rio's rhythm of meals, from corner bars and Saturday stews to beach vendors and late dinners in Botafogo. By Vivienne Hartwell · 2 min read · p. 9
  3. Curved, stepped rice terraces planted in bright green on a hillside near Ubud in Bali.Rice terraces, Bali · Vyacheslav Argenberg · CC BY 4.0 · cropped Bali · Vol. 2 · No. 06 · June 2026 Eating Bali: Warung to Cliff Experience the island's diverse dining, from affordable family-run warungs to dramatic cliff-edge restaurants on the Bukit Peninsula. By Vivienne Hartwell · 2 min read · p. 11
  4. A wide sandy beach on the Comporta coast with a lifeguard post, beach umbrellas and a few people near the surfPlaya de Comporta, Portugal, 2021-09-12, DD 15-26 PAN · Diego Delso · CC BY-SA 4.0 · cropped Comporta · Vol. 2 · No. 05 · May 2026 Comporta Meals Shack and Pine The Comporta coast offers two distinct dining experiences: barefoot beach lunches and quiet, lantern-lit dinners among the pines. By Vivienne Hartwell · 2 min read · p. 12
  5. Rows of grapevines in the Gibbston Valley wine country near Queenstown, with dry hills rising behind.016 Gibbston valley vineyard landscape in Central Otago wine… · Marek Ślusarczyk (Tupungato) Photo portfolio · CC BY 3.0 · cropped Queenstown · Vol. 2 · No. 03 · March 2026 Gibbston Valley Wine and Lunch The Gibbston valley east of Queenstown offers serious Pinot Noir and long cellar-door lunches, a distinct rhythm for autumn meals. By Vivienne Hartwell · 2 min read · p. 11
  6. Table Mountain rising behind central Cape Town and Table Bay harbor, South AfricaCape Town City Bowl and Table Mountain at dawn · Daniel Case · CC BY-SA 3.0 · cropped Cape Town · Vol. 2 · No. 02 · February 2026 Farm to Fork: Winelands Dining The estate restaurants of the Cape Winelands offer long lunches among the vines, often outshining city dining. By Vivienne Hartwell · 2 min read · p. 11
  7. Downtown Aspen in winter, Victorian storefronts under snow with Aspen Mountain rising behindAspen downtown · Daniel Schwen · CC BY-SA 4.0 · cropped Aspen · Vol. 2 · No. 01 · January 2026 Aspen Dining Beyond Après For a quieter dinner in Aspen, plan your table before the last run, not after the last drink. By Vivienne Hartwell · 2 min read · p. 9
  8. The secluded curve of Colombier beach reached only by footpath or boat on St. BarthelemyLooking north towards the Anse de Colombier, St. Barthelemy -… · David Broad · CC BY 3.0 · cropped St. Barths · Vol. 1 · No. 12 · December 2025 Dining on St. Barth The island's kitchens, from beach shacks to fine dining, reflect its French heritage and Caribbean setting. By Vivienne Hartwell · 2 min read · p. 10
  9. An overwater villa on stilts with a wooden deck and steps leading down into a clear lagoonAnantara Kihavah - Aerial Hero Shot 2024 · Matheenfaiz · CC BY-SA 4.0 · cropped The Maldives · Vol. 1 · No. 11 · November 2025 Maldives Meals and Board Basis On a Maldivian resort island, where your accommodation is your only kitchen, understanding your meal plan is essential. By Vivienne Hartwell · 2 min read · p. 11
  10. The rooftops and bell towers of Montalcino seen from the castle, with a road curving below and the Tuscan hills beyondMontalcinoViewFromCastle1 · LigaDue · CC BY-SA 4.0 · cropped Tuscany · Vol. 1 · No. 09 · September 2025 Tuscan Harvest Table September and October bring the grape and olive harvest to Tuscany, filling tables with new wine and oil. By Vivienne Hartwell · 2 min read · p. 9
  11. White houses with blue, red and green balconies standing at the edge of the turquoise sea in Little Venice, Mykonos, with mountains in the distance under a deep blue sky Mykonos · Vol. 1 · No. 08 · August 2025 Mykonos: Eating Beyond the Clubs Mykonos in August is full volume, but the island’s true eating rhythm is found away from the beach clubs. By Vivienne Hartwell · 2 min read · p. 9
  12. The striped facade and wide staircase of Amalfi Cathedral above the town squareDuomo (Amalfi) 01 · Bernard Gagnon · CC BY 4.0 · cropped The Amalfi Coast · Vol. 1 · No. 06 · June 2025 The Coast's Long Lunch On the Amalfi Coast, the midday meal is a deliberate pause, a chance to enjoy local seafood and lemons in the shade by the water. By Vivienne Hartwell · 2 min read · p. 12
  13. Rows of lavender in bloom running toward a low sun on the horizon, with a lone bare tree at the left under an orange and blue skyLavender fileds in Valensole · Nuno Alves · CC BY-SA 4.0 · cropped Provence · Vol. 1 · No. 05 · May 2025 Provence Markets and the Table Plan a trip around morning markets for a true taste of Provence, where a wedge of cheese and a bottle of rosé make the day. By Vivienne Hartwell · 2 min read · p. 9
  14. A tunnel of closely spaced vermilion torii gates on the path up Fushimi Inari shrine.2018 Senbon Torii path · PLBechly · CC BY-SA 4.0 · cropped Kyoto · Vol. 1 · No. 04 · April 2025 Kyoto Kaiseki: Planning Counter Meals Kyoto’s seasonal tasting menus are worth building a day around, but the best small counters book out weeks ahead; decide early or aim for lunch. By Vivienne Hartwell · 2 min read · p. 9
  15. The domes and pavilions of Jag Mandir island palace on Lake Pichola, seen from the waterUdaipur, India, Jag Mandir Palace, Fountains · Vyacheslav Argenberg · CC BY 4.0 · cropped Udaipur · Vol. 1 · No. 03 · March 2025 Udaipur Dinner Over the Water The old-city rooftops offer prime tables for watching the City Palace and Lake Pichola go gold at dusk. By Vivienne Hartwell · 2 min read · p. 9
  16. A busy market square at dusk with crowds, canvas-topped stalls and orange buildings with cafe terraces around itDžma el Fna, Marrákeš, 2025 (01) · Draceane · CC BY-SA 4.0 · cropped Marrakech · Vol. 1 · No. 02 · February 2025 Marrakech Meals: Medina, then Guéliz Traditional dishes thrive inside the medina walls, but the modern avenues of Guéliz offer a different pace and licensed restaurants. By Vivienne Hartwell · 2 min read · p. 9
  17. Skiers and the ridgeline at Piz Nair above the Corviglia ski area.St Moritz Muottas · Murdockcrc · CC BY 3.0 · cropped St. Moritz · Vol. 1 · No. 01 · January 2025 Lunch on Corviglia Skiing above St. Moritz is as much about the long, sun-drenched lunch on Corviglia’s terraces as it is about the runs themselves. By Vivienne Hartwell · 2 min read · p. 6
  18. Wooden stalls strung with lights and crowds in the square in front of Vienna’s neo-Gothic City Hall with its tall central tower, under a blue skyWien, Christkindlmarkt am Rathausplatz 2018 (1) · Palickap · CC BY-SA 4.0 · cropped Vienna · Vol. 0 · No. 12 · December 2024 Vienna Coffee House Afternoon In Vienna, a proper Kaffeehaus offers a table for an afternoon, with marble tops, newspapers, and a waiter in no hurry. By Vivienne Hartwell · 2 min read · p. 9
  19. Rows of clipped tea bushes covering the slopes of the hills around Munnar.Munnar Tea Plantation and Trees · Kondephy · CC BY-SA 4.0 · cropped Kerala · Vol. 0 · No. 11 · November 2024 The Pearl-Spot Fish Karimeen pollichathu is the dish to seek in Kerala’s backwaters, where meals follow the rhythm of the water and the coast eats distinctly. By Vivienne Hartwell · 2 min read · p. 9
  20. The whitewashed walls and central tower of Punakha Dzong at the meeting of two rivers.Punakha Dzong, Bhutan 26 · Bernard Gagnon · CC BY-SA 4.0 · cropped Bhutan · Vol. 0 · No. 10 · October 2024 Bhutanese Chillies and Mountain Meals Eating in Bhutan means understanding the chilli as a dish, and asking kitchens to prepare it the way locals do. By Vivienne Hartwell · 2 min read · p. 9
  21. The stone Galata Tower rising above the tiled rooftops of the Beyoğlu district. Istanbul · Vol. 0 · No. 09 · September 2024 Rakı, Meze, and the Istanbul Evening Forget the usual; Istanbul's true culinary rhythm unfolds with shared meze, fresh fish, and rakı, often across the Bosphorus. By Vivienne Hartwell · 2 min read · p. 9
  22. A mountain landscape shows a grassy slope with trees, forested valleys with a village, and the Sella and Saslonch mountain groups under a cloudy sky.Val Gardena with Sella and Saslonch from Resciesa · Wolfgang Moroder · CC BY-SA 3.0 · cropped The Dolomites · Vol. 0 · No. 08 · August 2024 Mountain Cooking Two Tongues The food of the Dolomites reflects its dual heritage, best enjoyed simply in a mountain hut after a morning walk. By Vivienne Hartwell · 2 min read · p. 9
  23. The short white Brant Point Light with its red roof standing at the sandy entrance to Nantucket harbour, with grey surf and an overcast skyBrant Point October · Brittle617 · CC BY-SA 4.0 · cropped Nantucket · Vol. 0 · No. 07 · July 2024 Nantucket Eating From Counter to Table Eating on Nantucket ranges from fine dining by the harbour to a simple sandwich on the beach, a spectrum of choices for any visit. By Vivienne Hartwell · 2 min read · p. 9
  24. Hexagonal basalt columns forming a cave at the foot of a cliff on a black sand beach, with visitors and the sea beyondReynisfjara, Iceland, 20230501 1639 4044 · Jakub Hałun · CC BY-SA 4.0 · cropped Iceland · Vol. 0 · No. 06 · June 2024 Meals on the Ring Road Eating well on Iceland’s main road means planning around long distances, high prices, and the rhythm of small-town kitchens. By Vivienne Hartwell · 2 min read · p. 9
  25. A large stone cairn between standing stones on grassy ground, with tall trees behind2018 07 10 Schottland (54) Balnuaran of Clava · Bewahrerderwerte · CC BY-SA 4.0 · cropped The Scottish Highlands · Vol. 0 · No. 05 · May 2024 Highlands Breakfast Bar Speyside A good Highland breakfast and an inn bar meal are often the best of the day, with Speyside distilleries a short drive from Aviemore. By Vivienne Hartwell · 2 min read · p. 8
  26. The riverside terraces of Calle Betis in the Triana district, looking across the Guadalquivir to the old city of Seville.Triana calle Betis 2019An001 · Anual · CC BY-SA 4.0 · cropped Seville · Vol. 0 · No. 04 · April 2024 Seville: A Moving Dinner The local way to eat in Seville is a moving dinner, grazing across several bars with classic dishes and dry sherries from Jerez. By Vivienne Hartwell · 2 min read · p. 9
  27. The carved sandstone facade of the Treasury, with tall columns and a pediment, seen from below in a rose-red gorgePetra Al Khazneh 1975 · Dosseman · CC BY-SA 4.0 · cropped Petra & Wadi Rum · Vol. 0 · No. 03 · March 2024 The Zarb and the Fire Dinner in Wadi Rum's desert is slow-roasted underground and shared around a fire, a central part of the Bedouin camp experience. By Vivienne Hartwell · 2 min read · p. 8
  28. The green and violet arc of the aurora borealis over a snow-covered spruce forest at night.Northern lights band swirls above Vuopajanniemi, Inari, Lapla… · Ximonic (Simo Räsänen) · CC BY-SA 4.0 · cropped Finnish Lapland · Vol. 0 · No. 01 · January 2024 The Lappish Plate Reindeer, cloudberries, and bread cheese define winter eating in Finnish Lapland, whether in a resort restaurant or a self-catered cabin. By Vivienne Hartwell · 2 min read · p. 9
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