
Clava Cairns & Standing Stones Culloden Strathnairn Inverness… · Dave Conner from Inverness, Scotland · CC BY 2.0 · cropped
Highlands Breakfast Bar Speyside
A good Highland breakfast and an inn bar meal are often the best of the day, with Speyside distilleries a short drive from Aviemore.
A proper Highland breakfast is a substantial meal, not a token gesture. These bed and breakfasts, often stone houses with three or four rooms, form the sensible backbone of a touring trip. Run by residents, they frequently offer the warmest and best-value bed available, a good start to a day of long drives or walks. The region does this form of accommodation exceptionally well. Booking ahead is necessary in popular spots, especially on Skye, where the best ones are secured months before the season.
When the day concludes, the coaching-inn bar often provides a satisfying meal. These establishments are frequently the oldest building in a village and serve as its social centre. One can expect a bar with a fire and decent local food. The historic inn at Sligachan on Skye, an institution for walkers and climbers for over a century, sits between the Red and Black Cuillin. Such places offer a position and history that cannot be replicated, and while rooms may be simpler, the location is usually worth the cost.
To the north-east, the Cairngorms present a different landscape from the jagged west. This ground is gentler and higher, characterised by ancient Caledonian pine forest, ospreys, and free-roaming reindeer. Aviemore serves as a natural base here, particularly for those seeking forest and wildlife over sea and cliffs, or for a Highland trip with slightly better weather odds, as the east is drier. Just north of Aviemore lies Speyside, the whisky country, holding the densest concentration of distilleries in Scotland. This pairing makes Aviemore a practical choice for exploring both the national park and the region's spirits.
From an Aviemore base, the Speyside distilleries are a short drive. However, the Highlands are large, and distances that appear modest on a map can become slow, winding hours. For this reason, the coaching-inn bar with its decent local food is often a practical dinner option, avoiding unnecessary evening travel on single-track roads. These roads, one lane wide, require drivers to pull into marked passing places to allow oncoming traffic or faster cars to overtake. Never park in one.
For those planning a visit, late May is, on balance, the best month to be in the Highlands. The days are long, stretching toward eighteen hours of usable light, with sunrise before five and light in the sky well past ten. This allows for an unhurried breakfast, and an evening drive with the light going gold on the water, without racing the dark. Crucially, the biting midges that plague the summer months have barely appeared in May, offering warm, long days largely free of them. This timing enhances the enjoyment of the landscape without the usual summer tax on patience.
From Vol. 0 · No. 05 · May 2024, The Highlands Issue. The cover story is The Scottish Highlands. Details change; confirm specifics with the property before you travel.
More from the column
-
Grape worker · Tomas Castelazo · CC BY 3.0 · cropped
Valle de Guadalupe · Vol. 2 · No. 09 · September 2026
Lunch Over a Wood Fire
In Valle de Guadalupe, open-air country kitchens cook over wood fires, serving local produce, Pacific seafood, and grilled meats among the vines.
-
Rice terraces, Bali · Vyacheslav Argenberg · CC BY 4.0 · cropped
Bali · Vol. 2 · No. 06 · June 2026
Eating Bali: Warung to Cliff
Experience the island's diverse dining, from affordable family-run warungs to dramatic cliff-edge restaurants on the Bukit Peninsula.
-
Praia da Comporta - Portugal (49801249507) · Vitor Oliveira from Torres Vedras, PORTUGAL · CC BY-SA 2.0 · cropped
Comporta · Vol. 2 · No. 05 · May 2026
Comporta Meals Shack and Pine
The Comporta coast offers two distinct dining experiences: barefoot beach lunches and quiet, lantern-lit dinners among the pines.
-
Chapulines Tacos - Tulum QR · Bernard DUPONT · CC BY-SA 2.0 · cropped
Tulum · Vol. 2 · No. 04 · April 2026
Tulum's Table: Two Ways to Eat
Tulum offers distinct dining experiences, from the scene of the beach clubs to the authentic kitchens of the town, each with its own rhythm and cost.

The columns, every month.
One considered letter when a new issue lands: the cover story, the four columns, and the month's news.