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Amorielli Vol. 0 · No. 05 · May 2024 The Arrival p. 10
The Arrival Getting there · The Scottish Highlands

Highland Trains: The Journey North

The West Highland Line and Caledonian Sleeper turn getting to the Scottish Highlands into an essential part of the adventure.

2 min read · Vol. 0 · No. 05 · May 2024
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A trip to the Scottish Highlands can begin before the flight lands or the car engine starts. The Caledonian Sleeper offers an overnight journey from London, allowing passengers to board in the city at night and wake among the mountains. This service reaches both Fort William and Inverness, transforming the transfer into a comfortable part of the holiday. It sets a different pace, trading the rush of an airport for the quiet rhythm of the rails, delivering you directly into the heart of the region's dramatic scenery.

Another way to make the journey itself count is the West Highland Line. This route runs from Glasgow, north to Fort William, and then west to the fishing port of Mallaig. It is widely considered one of Britain's great rail journeys, particularly for its crossing of the Glenfinnan Viaduct. Both the Sleeper and the West Highland Line are ordinary working services, meaning they are practical transport options around which a substantial trip can be planned.

Fort William, sitting under Ben Nevis in Lochaber, is a natural base for a trip centred on these train lines. It calls itself the outdoor capital of the UK, a fair claim given its position. From here, one is within striking distance of Glen Nevis, Glencoe (half an hour south), and the road to Mallaig, including the Glenfinnan Viaduct. The Jacobite steam train, which uses this line in summer, is also accessible. The town itself is workmanlike, not pretty, but its location is superb for anyone whose trip is about mountains and walking. Late May offers long light without the midges that own July.

If the Caledonian Sleeper takes you further east, Inverness serves as a practical capital and an obvious first base. It has the region’s airport and its main railway station. From Inverness, day trips to Loch Ness, the Culloden battlefield, and the Clava Cairns are straightforward. While Inverness itself is not dramatic, it functions as a gateway and a soft first night, placing the eastern glens within reach. However, for most itineraries beyond the main towns, a car remains necessary; the Highlands are too spread out and thinly served by buses for anything else to work.

When planning around these rail lines, consider late May. The argument for this timing rests on three things: the days are long, the hills are green, and the biting midges have not yet taken over. This far north, late May provides sunrise before five and light in the sky well past ten, offering close to eighteen usable hours. This allows for unhurried exploration and lets the low sun at each end of the day illuminate the landscape at its best. Plan for weather, not against it; pack layers and build slack into the itinerary for wet days.

From Vol. 0 · No. 05 · May 2024, The Highlands Issue. The cover story is The Scottish Highlands. Details change; confirm specifics with the property before you travel.

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