The Highland Lodge and Inn

The Highlands are large enough to make a poor choice of bed dictate a trip. The region offers a full spectrum of places to sleep, from bunkhouse to castle, but two types stand as signatures: the grand Victorian shooting lodge and the historic coaching inn. These are not interchangeable. One is a destination in itself, a place to stop moving; the other is a base for movement, often the social heart of a village. Understanding what each one delivers, and when a simpler option offers more, is the first step in planning a visit that works.

At the top of the scale are the country-house and castle hotels. These are grand Victorian shooting lodges and baronial houses, set in their own grounds with serious kitchens and long views. Inverlochy Castle near Fort William, where Queen Victoria stayed in 1873, is a prime example. Expect to pay a great deal and to dine formally. These places are inherently remote, designed for guests to settle in rather than use as a daily touring base. Their point is that you stop moving, so book one for the last two nights of a trip, for a sense of arrival and repose.

A step down, and far more common, are the traditional coaching inns and small hotels. These are often the oldest building in a village, and its social centre. The historic inn at Sligachan on Skye, beneath the Cuillin, is a classic of the type — a long-established institution for walkers and climbers. Places like this provide a bar with a fire and decent local food, all in a location that could not be built new. The rooms are often simpler than the price might suggest, but the cost reflects the position and the history, which for many is entirely worth it.

For the backbone of a touring trip, the bed and breakfast or guesthouse is the workhorse of a Highland visit. The region does this exceptionally well. A good Highland B&B — typically a stone house with three or four rooms, run by people who live there — often provides the warmest and best-value bed available. The breakfast is a substantial offering, not a token gesture. This is the sensible choice for moving between areas, particularly if the trip involves exploring different glens and coasts.

Whatever the choice, booking ahead is not merely advisable but often essential, especially in popular spots like Skye where the best options go months before the season. For trips that depend on reaching the remotest areas, where choices thin out fast and prices rise, secure that specific far-flung bed first. Build the rest of the itinerary around it, rather than hoping for availability later.