Crucian Cooking, Johnnycakes and Chicken

Crucian cooking starts with the everyday, with dishes like johnnycakes and pâtés. Johnnycakes, a fried bread, appear with most meals. Pâtés are fried pastries, often filled with saltfish or beef, and sometimes chicken. For a more substantial plate, kallaloo is a thick stew of local greens and okra, with meat or seafood. Fungi, a cornmeal side cooked with okra, completes many island plates. This is practical, flavourful food, rooted in local ingredients and traditions, found across St. Croix.

Beyond these staples, the island maintains an institution in its spit-roast chicken. For the classic version, the stop is La Reine Chicken Shack, located on Route 75 in Kingshill, in the middle of the island. It is the classic stop for its chicken, and for the johnnycakes that come with it.

When considering where to eat, Christiansted holds the widest choice of tables. The town’s boardwalk, running along the harbour, offers a range of options, and its side streets a block or two back are home to more. Savant, on Hospital Street, has been a dinner standby in Christiansted since 1998.

The East End, known for its villas and privacy, has fewer dining rooms. For guests staying out there, cooking or bringing in a private chef is common. However, a notable exception for a night out is Duggan’s Reef. This restaurant has been family-run on the water since 1983, on the quieter side of the island. It takes reservations only, a detail worth noting for anyone planning to visit.

A practical consideration for dining on St. Croix, particularly in the autumn months, is to check opening days before setting out. Many restaurants adjust their hours or close for a few weeks in September and October for their annual break. A quick call or a look online will save a drive across the island, ensuring a chosen table is open and ready.