Amalfi Coast: Getting Around by Water

The Amalfi Coast road, the SS163, is famous for good reason. It threads along the cliffs, a narrow, winding route with drops straight to the sea. As a passenger, it is thrilling. As a driver, it is demanding, and in summer it is often jammed. For June, when the coast begins to fill and the weather turns warm, this road becomes slow and hot. Buses crawl, packed with people, and the journey can feel more like a chore than part of a holiday. There is a better way to move between the towns, one that turns the getting-around into a highlight of the day.

The solution is the water. Ferries connect the main towns, skipping the road traffic entirely. They run from around April to October, making them the most pleasant way to travel in season, weather permitting. Amalfi, for example, sits at the midpoint of the coast and has the best ferry connections anywhere on the shore. This means day trips to other towns and to Capri feel simple. Positano, the town on the postcards, is also on the main ferry line, offering the classic view from the water as you approach.

Consider how you want to spend your evenings when choosing a base. For the easiest day trips, Amalfi or nearby Atrani are sensible picks, thanks to their flat streets and strong ferry links. If the iconic scene matters most, Positano delivers, provided you accept the stairs, the crowds, and the cost. For a quieter local feel, Praiano, Minori, or Maiori are options, though Praiano has limited main ferry line access. Ravello, high above the coast, offers calm and gardens but requires a bus or drive down to the water.

Arriving by water is also often the smoothest option. Ferries run from Naples down to the coast in season, allowing you to skip the mountain road entirely with your luggage. This is the calmest way to begin a trip, and the views are a bonus. Once settled, a boat trip is the best way to understand this coast, because the towns were built to be seen from the sea. Options range from a scheduled ferry hop to a private boat for the day. Many trips visit the Emerald Grotto at Conca dei Marini and pass the Li Galli islets.

Think hard before renting a car. Parking on the coast is scarce and expensive, and the road is slow and stressful in high season. Unless staying at an agriturismo in the hills or traveling well off-season, you will usually do better with ferries, buses, and the occasional hired driver. Build in slack for your travel days; buses run late, ferries cancel in wind, and the road backs up. Do not schedule a tight connection to your flight home on the day you leave the coast if you can avoid it. A last night near Naples or the airport before an early departure takes the pressure off.