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Amorielli Vol. 0 · No. 07 · July 2024 The Arrival p. 11
A white lighthouse with a black top stands on a sandy point, with people nearby, overlooking a harbour filled with boats and a town in the background.

Brant Point Lighthouse · Marissa Muscillo · CC BY-SA 3.0 · cropped

The Arrival Getting there · Nantucket

Crossing to Nantucket from Hyannis

For a July visit to Nantucket, foot passengers should take a fast ferry from Hyannis and leave the car on the mainland, or fly directly to ACK.

2 min read · Vol. 0 · No. 07 · July 2024
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Reaching Nantucket means making a choice in Hyannis, the primary gateway on Cape Cod. Two ferry operators run services to the island: the Steamship Authority and Hy-Line Cruises. The Steamship Authority offers a traditional ferry, making the crossing in about two hours and fifteen minutes, and a high-speed passenger catamaran, the Iyanough, which takes roughly an hour. Hy-Line Cruises operates a competing high-speed passenger catamaran from the same town, also completing the journey in about an hour. For any foot passenger, either fast boat is the sensible choice for a summer crossing; it is wise to buy tickets ahead for summer weekends, as sailings do sell out.

Bringing a car to Nantucket is a different matter entirely, and often an unnecessary one. Vehicle space on the Steamship Authority is limited, reservations are required, and in high season these slots are gone months in advance. Car spaces for a summer weekend can be claimed almost the moment they are released for booking. The fare for a vehicle is also steep. Unless one plans a fortnight's stay out of town with a significant amount of gear, this is an effort and expense that can be avoided. The island town itself is smaller than the queue for the car ferry, making a vehicle more of a burden than a convenience.

The quick alternative to the ferry is flying. Nantucket Memorial Airport, code ACK, handles seasonal direct flights from Boston, New York, and other cities in the Northeast, alongside short hops from Cape Cod and Martha’s Vineyard on small regional carriers. This is the fastest way in when the schedule and fare align, and it allows one to bypass the Cape traffic entirely on a Friday in July. Once on the island, the good news is how little a car is needed. The town is comfortably walkable from end to end, and the island has an unusually good network of paved bicycle paths radiating out from it. These run along Milestone Road the seven miles to 'Sconset, out to Surfside and Cisco on the south shore, and west toward Madaket. Renting a bicycle for the week is often the best small decision, transforming the flat, open middle of the island into a pleasure to cross and removing the parking problem entirely.

For those not cycling, the island’s regional transit authority operates seasonal shuttle buses, known as the Wave. These run from town out to 'Sconset, Madaket, the mid-island, and the airport, all at modest fares. They provide a useful way to reach a far beach or a village without the need for a car. Taxis and ride services are available but are limited and pricey during high season, and they will not necessarily save time on a busy evening. The one place a proper vehicle earns its keep is the far north tip of the island; reaching Great Point and the Coskata-Coatue refuge requires driving on soft sand, which means a four-wheel-drive and an over-sand permit. For most visitors, joining a guided natural-history tour is a more sensible approach. For everything else, however, feet, a bicycle, and the shuttle will serve you well.

From Vol. 0 · No. 07 · July 2024, The Summer Island Issue. The cover story is Nantucket. Details change; confirm specifics with the property before you travel.

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