
Maroon Bells (148358679) · Juan Esclusa · CC BY 3.0 · cropped
Ashcroft and the Valley
A short drive up-valley from Aspen, the ghost town of Ashcroft offers groomed cross-country tracks and a calm half-day away from the ski lifts.
The decision to leave the lift lines behind for a half-day can feel like a small rebellion in Aspen. While the four mountains offer plenty of skiing, sometimes a quieter pace calls. A short drive up the Castle Creek valley leads to the ghost town of Ashcroft, a place where the silver boom of the 1880s left behind a cluster of weathered buildings. Today, it serves as a gateway to a different kind of winter activity: groomed cross-country tracks that wind through the valley floor under the towering Elk Mountains. It is a calm counterpoint to the energetic slopes of Ajax or Snowmass, and a worthwhile change of scenery.
Ashcroft itself is a collection of historic structures, maintained to preserve the feel of its past as a once-thriving mining camp that went bust. It is a concise lesson in the valley’s history, but the draw for many is the network of cross-country ski trails that begin here. These tracks are regularly groomed, offering smooth gliding for classic and skate skiers alike. The setting is open, surrounded by forest and the quiet of the high country. For those seeking a meal as part of the excursion, the Pine Creek Cookhouse sits further up the valley. In winter, reaching it involves either cross-country skis or a horse-drawn sleigh, making the journey an integral part of the experience.
From Aspen town, the drive to Ashcroft is brief, perhaps twenty-five minutes, following Highway 82 and then turning up the Castle Creek Road. While the free RFTA shuttles serve the main ski mountains and Snowmass, a car is useful for this particular excursion, or for reaching other trailheads. The change in atmosphere is immediate; the bustle of town gives way to a wide, snow-covered valley. A half-day is sufficient to explore the ghost town’s buildings and complete a satisfying loop on the cross-country trails. You can rent equipment in Aspen before heading out, or arrange a sleigh ride to the Cookhouse for lunch and a return trip.
The value of a trip to Ashcroft lies in its deliberate contrast. It offers a chance to engage with the natural landscape and the area’s past without the intensity of a downhill ski day. The quiet of the valley, the rhythm of cross-country skiing, and the stark beauty of the peaks provide a perspective distinct from the slopes. It is a reminder that the Roaring Fork Valley holds more than just steep runs and lively après scenes. When planning your visit, check current conditions for the cross-country tracks and consider reserving a spot for the sleigh ride and meal at Pine Creek Cookhouse, particularly on weekends.
From Vol. 2 · No. 01 · January 2026, The Ski Issue. The cover story is Where to Stay in Aspen. Details change; confirm specifics with the property before you travel.
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