Western Shore Gardens

Staying fixed in one town on Lake Como misses some of its best parts. The true character of the lake, and some of its finest sights, lie across the water or a short boat ride away. This is especially true for the gardens, two of which warrant a full day’s excursion from any central base. Plan a day dedicated to the western shore, specifically the promontory at Lenno and the terraces of Tremezzo.

The most dramatic of Lake Como’s villa gardens is Villa del Balbianello, on a wooded promontory near Lenno. Its terraced gardens wrap a headland with water on three sides, a singular setting that has made it a film location. It is managed by FAI, the Italian environmental trust. Access is often by a short boat ride, though a shore path is also an option. Because access can be limited, booking ahead is strongly recommended, particularly if your visit falls during peak season. This is not a place to arrive at without a plan.

Across the water in Tremezzo sits Villa Carlotta, pairing a museum of sculpture and paintings, including work by Canova, with a large botanical park that climbs the hillside behind the house. It opens roughly from spring into early November and is at its best in April and May, when the azaleas and rhododendrons are in flower, though its botanical collection is compelling through late autumn. Tremezzo and Lenno are part of the western mid-lake area, which is garden country, quieter than Bellagio but still central by boat. This means a day trip from Bellagio, Varenna, or Menaggio is straightforward. The car ferry, which also carries foot passengers, shuttles frequently between Bellagio, Varenna, Menaggio, and Cadenabbia, which is a short distance from Tremezzo. From Cadenabbia, local boats or a walk can get you to both villas.

Planning a boat day around these two gardens is worth the effort because they offer distinct experiences of the lake’s natural and cultivated beauty. Villa del Balbianello is about the drama of its setting and structured elegance; Villa Carlotta provides a broader botanical scope and art collection. Both close over winter, so late spring into early November is the window for visiting, with April and May being particularly vibrant for blooms. The central towns — Bellagio, Varenna, Menaggio, Tremezzo, and Lenno — are close enough that frequent boats tie them together, and a day pass usually pays for itself if you plan to hop between them.

Remember that these are hillside gardens with steps and gravel, so wear shoes you can climb in. Check current schedules for boat services, as last boats run earlier than expected outside high summer, and confirm opening calendars for the villas before committing to dates.