
Bronze-winged jacana (Metopidius indicus) · Charles J. Sharp · CC BY-SA 4.0 · cropped
Kochi Arrival: Getting Around
Cochin International Airport is the entry point for Kerala's classic circuit, but knowing how to travel the state's winding roads saves time.
Arriving in Kerala for the first time usually means landing at Cochin International Airport. This is the main gateway, offering the widest choice of flights, and it is notable for running largely on solar power. From here, the standard port-backwater-tea loop begins: a route that takes in the old spice port of Kochi, the backwaters around Alleppey or Kumarakom, and the tea hills above Munnar. This triangle is the trip most first-time visitors should take, and it can be done well in seven or eight nights.
Once on the ground, the choice of transport shapes the experience. Kerala has a good coastal railway line, and trains between towns like Thiruvananthapuram, Kollam, Alappuzha, and Ernakulam (for Kochi) are cheap, scenic, and effective for covering flat coastal distances. However, the backwater moorings and the hill estates are not on the railway network. For these stretches, hiring a car with a driver is a normal and affordable way to travel. It takes the strain out of the winding hill roads, particularly on the climb into tea country, and allows for flexibility. Agree the route and daily rate in advance.
Reckon on distances being slow. Kochi to Alleppey is only about fifty kilometres but takes well over an hour by road. Alleppey to Kumarakom is a short hop around Vembanad lake. The journey from Kochi up to Munnar, around one hundred and thirty kilometres, typically takes four hours of climbing road. Continuing from Munnar to Thekkady adds another two to three hours. The state is long and narrow, pressed between the Arabian Sea and the Western Ghats, and its roads are winding, wet, and busy, meaning distances that look small on a map read slow in practice.
The single routing mistake to avoid is trying to touch the far south and the hills in the same week from Kochi. The map might tempt one to add Varkala or Kovalam onto the port-backwater-tea loop, but the roads punish this ambition. A trip that attempts to bolt on these southern beaches turns a calm week into a driving marathon. Instead, pick your triangle—port, backwater, tea—give each a couple of nights, and keep the drives short. This allows the car days to be part of the trip itself, rather than a penance between highlights.
From Vol. 0 · No. 11 · November 2024, The Backwaters Issue. The cover story is Kerala. Details change; confirm specifics with the property before you travel.
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