Jordan: Arrival and Getting Around

Planning a trip to southern Jordan invites a decision about arrival and departure. Most begin at Queen Alia International Airport, south of Amman, the country’s main gateway. From there, Petra is roughly a three-hour drive. The Desert Highway offers the quickest route south, though the King’s Highway provides a slower, more rewarding alternative, threading through hills and past stops such as Madaba, Mount Nebo, and the crusader castle at Kerak. For those with time, taking the King’s Highway south and the Desert Highway back gives a comprehensive view of the country. Once your dates are set, the Jordan Pass is the first item to sort; bought before arrival, it bundles the tourist entry visa with admission to Petra and many other sites, typically paying for itself.

For Petra, the town of Wadi Musa is the gateway, with hotels running up the hill from the main site entrance. Proximity to that gate is the key decision. Being able to walk down in minutes, rather than relying on a shuttle or taxi, changes how you experience the site. It means entering at opening to find the Treasury to yourself, retreating for a rest during the hottest hours, and returning for the softer late-afternoon light without each entry feeling like an expedition. These rooms carry a premium and book quickly in spring, so secure this reservation first. March, the month this issue is built around, offers warming days and cool nights, with crowds yet to reach their peak. The exposed sandstone holds heat, so early starts are invaluable in Petra.

The link between Petra and Wadi Rum is short, on the order of an hour and a half to two hours by road, easily arranged as a private transfer. In Wadi Rum, there is no town to base in; visitors sleep inside or at the edge of the protected area, in a camp. Camps range from simple clusters of goat-hair or canvas tents, with dinner cooked in a zarb, to elaborate domed pods with air-conditioning and en-suite facilities. While the domed camps offer comfort and a view of the stars, a traditional camp often delivers more quiet and darkness. Regardless of the style, the quality of a desert night depends more on the family behind the camp than on the tent itself. Read recent guest accounts and confirm exactly what is included, from the jeep tour to dinner and breakfast. One night in Wadi Rum is sufficient to feel the desert; two allows for longer jeep routes and time for a walk or camel ride.

Getting around Jordan is easiest with a rental car if you prefer to control your own start times. Main roads are straightforward for driving, though a car is not needed once inside Petra or Wadi Rum. For those who prefer not to drive, the JETT bus company runs coach services from Amman toward the south, and hotels and camps can arrange private transfers and drivers, which are common and not extravagant when shared. The season for travel matters: March sits at the front edge of the good spring stretch, with days that warm up nicely and nights that still want a jacket. Winter brings cold nights and the occasional risk of heavy rain sending water through Petra’s Siq, which closes the gorge for safety.

The sensible pattern for southern Jordan is four nights: two near the Petra gate in Wadi Musa, then one or two in Wadi Rum. This allows for a full first day in Petra and an unhurried second morning, perhaps for the climb to the Monastery, Ad Deir, or a higher trail. The trip can then end toward Aqaba and the Red Sea, about an hour south of Wadi Rum, where King Hussein International Airport offers domestic and some regional flights. This allows for a clean exit from the south rather than driving back to Amman. The single routing mistake to avoid is trying to see Wadi Rum as a day trip from Wadi Musa; the drive, the jeep loop, and the return consume the day, leaving only the desert’s dullest middle hours and none of its night. Sleep out there, or save it for next time.