The King's Highway Southbound

A drive south from Queen Alia International Airport, near Amman, toward Petra can be a quick transit on the Desert Highway, or it can be a slow unfolding of the country. For those with time and a rental car, the second option offers far more, threading through hills and past ancient sites that the faster road bypasses entirely. This is the King’s Highway, an old route that runs down the spine of Jordan and delivers a richer sense of place than any direct dash. It adds hours to the journey, but those hours are the point, turning a transfer into a series of worthwhile stops before reaching the Nabataean city carved from sandstone.

The journey leads first to Madaba, a town known for its mosaics, including a map of the region. Just a short drive from there is Mount Nebo, a site with historical significance and views across the Jordan Valley. Further south, the road climbs to Kerak, where a vast crusader castle stands, commanding the landscape. The route continues through the Dana Biosphere Reserve, a protected area that hints at the country’s wilder, quieter corners. Each stop breaks the drive, providing a different perspective on Jordan’s layers of history and geography. This is not a route for rushing; it rewards patience and attention.

The routing that avoids doubling back is to take the King’s Highway on the way south to Petra. This commits one to the longer, more scenic approach, ensuring the sites along its length are seen. Once two nights have been spent near the Petra gate in Wadi Musa, and then one or two nights sleeping out in Wadi Rum, the return north can be made on the quicker Desert Highway. This delivers the full sweep of the country’s south without wasting valuable time retracing steps. Alternatively, if the Red Sea appeals, Aqaba sits about an hour south of Wadi Rum, offering a convenient departure point from King Hussein International Airport, ending the trip by the sea rather than driving all the way back to Amman.

March, the month of this issue, sits at the front edge of the good spring stretch for this region. Days warm up nicely for walking the Siq and climbing to the Monastery in Petra, while nights in Wadi Rum still call for a jacket. The desert margins often show green from winter rains. This is the season when the light is long and the walking is comfortable, making the King’s Highway journey all the more pleasant. By choosing the slower road south and the faster one back, or by planning an exit from Aqaba, a simple transfer transforms into an integral part of seeing Jordan. That decision shapes the entire experience, offering depth where a faster route offers only speed.